The Anchor
trickyOne card takes the spotlight. The artwork runs all the way round it, across the eight other pockets.
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Complete guide
A binder page can do more than hold nine cards. The Michi Method mixes your cards with printed artwork that carries across several pockets. This guide covers the layouts, the dimensions, the paper and every step up to the final cut.
Instead of dropping a card into every pocket, you design the whole page: cards and printed artwork, with no pocket left empty. One image can run across two, four or nine pockets, so the cards stop sitting side by side and start belonging to a scene.
It grew on Instagram, where collectors started posting pages they had designed rather than filled. The name comes from @peeplop, the account that popularised it, and the community kept it.
None of it is official. Pokémon publishes no rules here, and nobody owns the method: it spread page by page, so measurements and habits differ from one collector to the next. What follows is what comes up most often, not a standard.
See the account behind the nameNone of these are rules and all of them mix. They are starting points: the hard part is deciding what the page is about, not drawing it.
One card takes the spotlight. The artwork runs all the way round it, across the eight other pockets.
The same species, set after set. The page shows a collection rather than a card.
A page for one illustrator. The style holds it together, and a single artwork signs it.
One line, from the first stage to the last. The artwork around the cards tells what happens between two evolutions.
A character and their team: their card, their Pokémon, and the artwork to set the scene.
Everything red, everything blue. The easiest constraint to hold, and the one that pays off fastest.
Five steps, always the same. The first three happen on screen; the last two happen on the kitchen table.
A Pokémon, an evolution line, a colour, an illustrator, a mood. Give the page one clear idea: every decision after this gets easier, and a page with no subject turns crowded fast.
Place the cards you want to show first, then build the artwork around the pockets that are left. That order matters: the cards decide, the image adapts.
Pocket sizes shift from brand to brand. Two minutes with a ruler save a sheet of cardstock and a reprint.
100 %, no fit-to-page, on stock heavy enough not to curl. Run one test piece on plain paper before committing the good stuff.
A ruler and a craft knife give you clean edges, and clean edges are what sell the illusion once the pieces sit side by side. Then slide them in, pocket by pocket.



Nothing exotic. Most collectors already own three quarters of this list.
Required
Nice to have
To plan the page
3×3 is the format behind nearly every example you'll come across. How the pockets open is what really changes your options.
Side-loading
Cards go in from the side, which means a piece of paper can bridge the seam between two neighbouring pockets. That bridge is what lets artwork run across the page, and it is the format behind most Michi pages you'll see.
Top-loading
Each pocket opens at the top and stays closed on the other sides. Compositions still work (plenty of beautiful pages are built this way), but every pocket is its own box, so large artwork has to be cut pocket by pocket.
Best format · 3×3, nine pockets
Three measurements that are easy to mix up: the card, the pocket that holds it, and the insert you print. Confusing the first two is the single most expensive mistake in this hobby.
Measure before you print
Pocket dimensions vary slightly between binder brands. Measure the inside of your own pockets before producing a full page: the numbers below are common reference points, not a standard.
63 × 88 mm
The one measurement that never moves.
70 × 95 mm
Around 70 × 95 mm of usable space. Worth checking yours.
68 × 93 mm
One millimetre less than the pocket on each side, so it slides in without forcing. If it still forces: 66 × 91 mm.
| Format | Pieces to cut | Pixels at 300 DPI | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 pocket | 68 × 93 mm | The basic insert: the pocket, less one millimetre on each side. | |
| 2 pockets, side by side | 139 × 93 mm | A single piece, folded under the seam: 3 mm wider to bridge it. | |
| 2 pockets, stacked | 68 × 93 mm | Two single-pocket pieces: none bridges a horizontal seam. | |
| 3 pockets, one row | 139 × 93 + 68 × 93 mm | A two-pocket piece and a single. | |
| 2 × 2 block | 139 × 93 mm | Two two-pocket pieces, one per row. | |
| Full 3 × 3 page | 139 × 93 + 68 × 93 mm | Three rows: on each, a two-pocket piece and a single. |
A single piece of paper can fold across one seam between pockets, but not two. And nothing bridges the gap between rows: each row has its own opening. So a full-page illustration works beautifully; it simply arrives as several pieces that meet up once they are in.
This is the question that stops most people, and it has a few different answers depending on what the page is about.
Card illustrations, promotional visuals, game artwork. The easiest place to start, and the artwork that naturally sits well next to the cards themselves.
Many card artists post their finished pieces and their sketches. Essential if you're building a page around one illustrator.
Often perfect for a specific mood. Always identify the artist and respect what they allow: most are happy with personal use, far fewer with anything beyond it.
A drawing, a photo, a pattern, a texture, a flat colour. Also the only source whose rights you can be certain about.
Start from the largest file you can find. An image that looks fine on a phone turns noticeably soft once it spans several printed pockets. As a rule of thumb, aim for around 2,400 pixels across for artwork covering a full page.
This is where most things go wrong, and a single test print fixes nearly all of them.
Recommended
Matte cardstock, 250–300 gsm.
Works too
200–250 gsm, depending on how stiff you want it and how tight your pockets are.
Avoid
Ordinary thin printer paper: it curls inside the pocket within days.
Matte and satin are usually easier to live with. Binder sleeves already add their own reflections, and a high-gloss finish stacks more on top of them.
Before you click Print
Mixing up card size and pocket size
63 × 88 mm is the card. The pocket is bigger, and the pocket is what your insert has to fill.
Starting from a low-resolution image
What holds up on a screen falls apart in print, especially stretched across four pockets.
Letting the printer resize the file
Fit to page shifts everything by a millimetre or two. That's all it takes for nothing to line up.
Ignoring how the pockets open
What can physically go in depends on which side opens. Decide before you design, not after.
Printing the whole page untested
One test piece costs three seconds and saves a full sheet.
Everything above works fine with a drawing app, a ruler and some patience. michi binder just removes the steps where sheets get wasted.
By hand
In michi binder
Pockets merge, artwork frames at real scale, and the cutting follows the way your binder opens.
The full card catalogue
Every Pokémon card, in English and French. Drop in the card that will go in the pocket: it shows on screen and never prints.
Cutting worked out for you
The editor knows which way your binder opens. It cuts the composition row by row, arranges the pieces on your sheets and adds the crop marks.
See the page before you print it
A 3D preview you can leaf through and open. The best possible moment to change your mind.
Print cleanly from your phone
Export a print-ready PDF at the correct paper size, without browser headers or accidental scaling.
Each one tells you which pockets to merge and what sizes to print. Rebuild it by hand, or open it straight in the editor.
The Anchor
Single Pokémon
Artist Page
Evolution
Trainer
Colour Theme
Different cards, different styles, same idea.
A way of designing a binder page rather than filling it: cards and printed artwork cut to pocket size, with no empty pocket. One image can cover several pockets, so the page reads as a single picture.
It spread on Instagram and takes its name from @peeplop, the account that popularised it. It isn't an official method: the community named it and keeps shaping it.
No. Most pages start from artwork that already exists. The work is composition: deciding which card and which artwork goes where.
A 9-pocket side-loading binder is the easiest, because artwork can bridge the seam between neighbouring pockets. It's also the format behind most of the examples you'll find.
Yes, with slightly different compositions. Each pocket stays its own box, so large artwork has to be cut pocket by pocket, which shows a little more.
Around 68 × 93 mm for a single pocket, a touch under the pocket itself. Two pockets side by side make one piece of roughly 139 × 93 mm: three millimetres more than two inserts, to pass under the seam. Measure yours: the differences between brands are millimetres, and millimetres are enough.
Pocket size, minus two to four millimetres. An insert cut at 63 × 88 mm (exact card size) leaves a visible sliver of empty pocket around the edges.
Matte cardstock around 250–300 gsm suits most pages. 200–250 gsm also works and slides in more easily. Ordinary printer paper curls.
Yes, an online print service or a local copy shop will do it. Ask for 100 % scale, no resizing, on the stock of your choice.
Official card artwork, pieces posted by the illustrators themselves, or your own images. Always take the largest file available: what looks sharp on screen can go soft across four pockets.
Yes, and that's the whole point. It gets cut: one piece of paper bridges one seam between pockets, never two, and never between rows.
Visually yes, and it looks superb across a spread. Each page is still printed and cut on its own: the continuity comes from how you frame the image.
Any tool that works in millimetres will do. What michi binder really saves you is building the template and working out the cuts.
No more than an ordinary binder: cards stay in their pockets and inserts take the neighbouring ones. Just don't slide an insert and a card into the same pocket.
Yes, with three binders and twenty pages each. Nothing to install, and no watermark on anything you print.
No. The artwork belongs to its illustrators and publishers, so a composed page stays personal use.